The idyllic countryside of Qingtian county, near Wenzhou, East China's Zhejiang province, is juxtaposed against the Italian city of Prato, in Tuscany. CLARK/CHINA DAILY
After toiling in garment workshops, newcomers now make a major contribution to local fashion industry
For centuries, Prato has stood as a prominent center of Italian fashion production, nestled within the picturesque region of Tuscany, celebrated for its rich artistic heritage.
However, in the 1990s, this medieval city faced a pressing challenge — a scarcity of labor and an inability to keep pace with the rapid changes in the fashion industry.
Consequently, a wave of Chinese immigrants flocked to the city, answering the call to collaborate with their Italian counterparts in the production of swiftly produced and affordable garments.
Fast fashion or pronto moda
As a result, Prato now boasts one of the largest concentrations of Chinese migrants in Europe, with a staggering one person in four originating in China.
Many of these individuals actively contribute to the realm of "fast fashion", or as it is known in Italian, "Pronto Moda".
One such person is Xu Qiulin, whose journey in Prato back in 1989 when he embarked on a career in fast fashion.
Recounting his modest beginnings, he described his first workshop occupied an estimated area of 150-200 square meters and the space was divided into five or six rooms, each equipped with around five or six sewing machines, sometimes even a dozen. "I had a team of two or three workers, and I actively participated in material sourcing and assisting them with their tasks," he said. "Communication posed a challenge due to my limited proficiency in the Italian language."
"When I first arrived, there were very few Chinese, only about five to six hundred. However, the Chinese population has now reached 50,000."
His story highlights the significant growth of the Chinese community in Prato over the years.
Xu acknowledged that during the first decade after his arrival, even with his own workshop, he often felt like he was working for the Italians, with meager profits to show for it.
In 2000, he ventured beyond the fast fashion industry and established a mid-range clothing company called Giupel, which does some of its own designs.
Over time, the Chinese community in Prato has also experienced a notable transformation, embracing the entrepreneurial spirit of their hometown, Wenzhou, a city in East China's Zhejiang province while making their own path.
With a strong desire to become independent and a natural inclination toward innovation, they have defining strengths.
Wang Zengli, another Chinese business owner in Prato, said: "Wenzhou people are very smart. After working in the Italian factories for a while, they realized it wasn't difficult to operate such factories.
"Gradually, between 2000 and 2006, they all became their own bosses. Fast fashion reached its peak between 2005 and 2010. Almost the whole of Europe flocked here to place their orders."
Two Chinese women make fast fashion garments at a workshop in Prato, Italy. CLARK/CHINA DAILY
Chinese migrants' arrival
The influx Chinese migrants into Prato brought about economic growth, but also gave rise to feelings of grudge among some locals.
As the Chinese population continued to increase, these issues became politicized, with right-wing politicians making promises to take stronger measures against them.
Lamberto Gestri, a former president of the greater Prato province, said: "Prato has a long history of immigration, starting with internal migration within the Tuscany region, where people from other parts of Tuscany moved to Prato in search of employment opportunities. Later on, immigration from both the northern and southern parts of Italy also contributed to the city's diverse population."
But the arrival of the Chinese community brought a unique dynamic to Prato, Gestri said.
"The Chinese community has a distinct vision and mentality that differs from the Italian population. They have a strong emphasis on work and productivity," he said. "These cultural differences have occasionally led to conflicts, as the Chinese way of doing business and their work ethics have posed challenges for Italian industries trying to compete. These conflicts have been one of the reasons for the tensions between the two communities."
Daniele Cologna, a professor at the University of Insubria and an expert on Chinese immigrants in Italy, believes the blame for financial losses experienced by business people in Prato lies with the Italians themselves.
"The fact that Italians were losing money had nothing to do with the Chinese, it had to do with the fact that the Prato garment district was unable to find a way to relaunch its business model in a globalized economy, and that is not on the Chinese, it's on us, it's on Italians," he explained.
During the 1980s and 1990s, Italian businessmen initially welcomed Chinese workers and outsourced certain manufacturing tasks to them, benefiting from cost savings and increased productivity. This arrangement was mutually advantageous, as Italians could profit from rent and have labor-intensive work done at a favorable price and efficient pace, Cologna said.
However, the dynamics shifted when some Chinese entrepreneurs realized they could move beyond the sweatshop model and establish their own businesses.
"They started importing garments from China. That's when things started to sour in terms of ethnic relations in the Prato area … when the fortunes of the Chinese in Prato grew while the Italian textile manufacturing sector started to have its most difficult time ever. And this built up a lot of resentment toward the Chinese," he added.
A Chinese worker crafts a high-end luxury handbag at a Chinese-owned factory in Florence, Italy. CLARK/CHINA DAILY
Same lineages
Interestingly, as highlighted by Cologna, the majority of Chinese residents in Prato can be traced back to ancestral lineages originating from the vicinity of Wenzhou, a southeastern region in Zhejiang province.
Yan Xiaohai, an officer from the local Overseas Chinese Bureau in Qingtian, a small town near Wenzhou, stated that Zhejiang province has witnessed four major waves of migration to Europe. And he said migration from Qingtian played a crucial role in Chinese migration to Europe.
"It began in the late 19th century when opportunities arose through exhibitions," he explained. "In 1911, a devastating flood struck the county, prompting people to seek new opportunities elsewhere, leading to an increase in migration to Europe."
According to Yan, the first major wave of migration occurred from 1925 to 1930, ending with the onset of the worldwide economic crisis of that time. World War II further slowed migration for about 20 years. The second significant wave began in the 1980s, after the implementation of the China's reform and opening-up policy.
Yan estimates that the population of Qingtian is now around half a million, with approximately 300,000 individuals officially having been recorded as emigrating to Europe, which accounts for nearly 60 percent of the population.
"People from Qingtian were among the first Chinese immigrants to Europe, primarily due to the limited resources and opportunities in their small county," Yan said. "The lack of natural resources and limited space for agricultural work pushed the rural population, including the farmers, to seek better prospects abroad."
Exquisite luxury fashion items are showcased at a high-end store in Milan, Italy. CLARK/CHINA DAILY
The path to Prato
But why did a large number of people from Wenzhou choose to settle in Prato, a city 20 kilometers from Florence with a population of 200,000?
According to Zhang Yili, a professor of economics at Wenzhou University whose research focuses on Wenzhou migrants in Italy, in late 1980s, the younger generation of local people in Prato showed less interest in working in their parents' textile workshops. Instead, they sought opportunities in larger cities including Milan and Rome, which caused a decline in the development of the garment industry. This created a pressing need for a new labor force.
Because people from Wenzhou living in Europe are a tight-knit group and are willing to share information with each other, it was not long before word spread that Prato had launched new preferential policies to encourage more people to move there, so they went.
"This is a very good opportunity for Wenzhou-nese, because many of them had gained experiences in clothing manufacturing in Wenzhou, a city renowned for its expertise in this field," Zhang said.
"Upon arriving in Prato, they discovered that the local industry was similar to what they had been doing in their hometown or what their relatives were engaged in in places like France."
Zhang emphasized that Wenzhou people were instrumental in the transformation of Prato from a textile-focused industry to a center of fast fashion.
"The Wenzhou model is famous for its specialization in the production of small-scale products for a large market. The people who made the community had a tendency to come together and form industry clusters based on shared interests and expertise," he explained.
Drawing from their experience in China, Zhang said, these individuals brought their collective knowledge and skills to Prato. With their extensive background in shoes and clothing, they knew how to effectively transition from traditional textile manufacturing into "Pronto Moda", he added.
A Chinese man precisely measures materials for fast fashion garments in Prato, Italy. CLARK/CHINA DAILY
Going upmarket
Made in Italy — these are more than just three words on a manufacturing label. They have come to be an adage for quality. What makes 'Made in Italy' so special that consumers are willing to pay a premium price?
Cologna, from the University of Insubria, said it is the combination of beauty, a rich historical heritage, and a certain form of elegance tied to a job well done by a fine Italian hand.
"But now, of course, we also have a fine Chinese hand working at it," he added.
Italians take the 'Made in Italy' label seriously. So seriously they even passed a law in 2009 saying companies can claim a 'Made in Italy' tag only if products are designed, planned, processed, and packaged on Italian territory. But the law did not put any restrictions on the workers who make the products. Workers do not have to be Italian, or even European.
For more than two decades, Chinese fast fashion factories in Prato have been operating, initially to cater to the lower end of the Italian fashion market and provide affordable clothing to the masses across Europe. However, some Chinese factories are now breaking into the high-end market, manufacturing for the houses of Gucci, Armani, and Prada.
Fu Fanghui, a first-generation Chinese migrant, has made a name for himself as a producer of bags for prestigious Italian high-fashion brands. He emphasized the utmost importance of embracing a mindset that places the brand's quality above any short-term gains.
"You must prioritize quality as if it were your own life," he said. "Once you possess such a spirit, there is nothing you cannot achieve. Over time, these esteemed fashion houses have become increasingly convinced that we Chinese possess this remarkable spirit. It is not only our dedication to product quality that impresses them, but also our ability to seamlessly integrate their culture and concepts. This is particularly evident among the Chinese people, particularly those hailing from Zhejiang province, who readily assimilate these values with great enthusiasm."
According to Fu, six out of 10 factories in Florence producing products for big Italian high-fashion brands are owned by Chinese entrepreneurs.
The Chinese in Italy are not solely engaging in fast fashion or manufacturing for Italian brands. In fact, some individuals have managed to break the glass ceiling and ascended to the upper echelons of Italian design.
Xu Yuejuan represents a striking departure from the prevalent perception of native Chinese involvement in the Italian fashion industry, which often revolves around fast fashion, assembly-line production, long work hours, and cheap labor.
Xu has become the first native Chinese member of the esteemed Milan Fashion Club. Her fashion label, Delves-JK, is now mentioned in the same breath as industry icons including Louis Vuitton, Armani, and Christian Dior.
However, Xu's journey to the top tier of Italian design was not without its challenges, as she encountered bias along the way.
"When people see me, they often remark, 'You are not Italian', as if assuming that European designers are inherently superior," she revealed.
"There was a prevailing bias within the fashion industry that Chinese designers were only capable of imitation and copying. The perception was that our strengths lay primarily in replicating the work of others."
Xu emphasized the significance of originality in gaining recognition from European counterparts, saying: "When you create something unique and authentic, Europeans will undoubtedly acknowledge it. The key lies in your originality."
Xu also believes prioritizing quality is paramount.
"It is through maintaining impeccable quality within your brand that your reputation can endure and thrive over time," she said.
